EASTER ISLAND

Was Easter Island colonized from South America? What are the three 'not to be missed' sights? What's the easiest way to get there? How long should I plan to stay? How do I get around the island?

No. Despite the best efforts of the late Thor Heyerdahl to "prove" this theory, there is no evidence of any contact with South America. The people of Easter Island (Rapa Nui) are Polynesians, speak a Polynesian language, cooked their food using the old Polynesian earth oven method, and had the same myths, legends, and religion as are found in the rest of the Polynesian triangle. Archaeological investigations going back to 1914 have never found a single item that could be remotely considered as South American: no pottery, no metal, no fine pressure flaking (of spear points). If there ever was any contact with South America, it likely would have been the Polynesians going there; they had the sailing capabilities. Recent mt/DNA studies give us scientific proof that the Easter Islanders were Polynesians.

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The quarry, Rano Raraku, is one of the wonders of the archaeological world and should be No. 1 on anyone's list. Try to get there early and plan to spend several hours. Orongo is a close second: this spectacular site is perched on the rim of 300-meter cliff and was the site where the famous birdman cult activities were conducted. The third: to chose one site as No. 3 is hard; there are another five really special sites. If your time is very short, visit Tahai. This site is close to the village and has been restored so that it gives a feel for what a ceremonial site must have looked like in ancient times. But, there is also Anakena, with its lovely beach and palm trees, and two restored ahu with statues. And Tongariki, now restored with fifteen standing statues, but what about Akivi with its seven standing statues? Or Vinapu with its beautiful sea wall? You'll just have to spend more time there.

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There is really only one practical way, via air. And LanChile is the only airline that flies to the island. But flights go from Santiago, Chile, to Easter Island, and then most go on to Papeete in French Polynesia. So you can get to Easter Island via Tahiti or via Santiago. It is possible to do a 'circle' flight: going in from Santiago, to Easter Island, out via Tahiti, and fly home from Tahiti. Of course, you can also go by reverse direction, but the flights are heavily booked between Easter Island and Santiago creating real problems should you happen to get "bumped." Between Easter Island and Tahiti the plane is seldom full. The circle route is a bit more costly, but you get an extra country that way. The flights take at least five hours, whether you are coming from Tahiti or from Santiago.

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Five days minimum. Most travel agents book tourists for three days; this is NOT ENOUGH. Most travel agents have no clue how much there is to see and do on the island. A three day stay is really less due to the arrival times (many flights come in at night, so you lose one day already), and you are likely to lose a day due to rain. Keep in mind there are nearly 1,000 moai (statues), around 350 ahu (ceremonial platforms), beautiful beaches, surfing, great scuba and snorkeling, fishing, horseback riding. There is a great hike you can take around the north end of the island, but that takes most of one day. You will want to shop for a stunning wood carving from the local artists, meet the islanders (who are very friendly), take in some of the great dance performances, get down at the local discos. Give yourself time to really experience this very special place.

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Rent a car, motorcycle, bike, take a taxi, walk, join a tour, or rent a horse. Cars run around US$50 a day, more if you keep it overnight. There are over 100 taxis, and they can take you around but you might enjoy going at your own speed, taking time to see things that interest you. If you rent a bicycle, bring your own bike lock. Horses look glamorous but they are mostly pretty miserable beasts. The major sites are on opposite sides of the island (from the village) and it can take a lot of time to reach them if you go by horse or if you try walking. It is more efficient to have a vehicle, in my opinion. You can rent a vehicle through your hotel, or from one of the many places in the village that advertise car rentals. Do not leave the village without plenty of drinking water! There is no water safe to drink elsewhere on the island. There's only one gas station, on the street that runs past the airport (Hotu Matua street).

(Our thanks to Georgia Lee, author of An Uncommon Guide to Easter Island, for these answers.)

Peruse our online guide to Easter Island
View a map of Easter Island
Explore links to Easter Island travel websites
Buy your guidebook to Tahiti & Easter Island

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